It's 11 at night. You bought a car today, and something feels off.

You already signed. That doesn't mean you're stuck. Check what the deal really cost you, cancel what you can, and get a better rate — tonight.

Start here
✅ No credit pull
🔒 No contact info asked
🌐 En español
Start here

Three steps, in order

1

Check your rate.

Enter your credit score, the Interest rate the dealer quoted, and the amount you financed. See the markup in dollars — what your rate should have been versus what you got.

Free Rate Check →
2

Check what you can cancel.

Gap coverage (the coverage that pays the difference between what you owe on your loan and what your car is worth if it is totaled or stolen), extended warranty, tire and wheel — each one with its steps, its deadline, and a letter you can copy and send.

Cancellation guides →
3

Get a better rate.

See what you actually qualify for, and refinance the rest.

Refinance calculator →
Omar Arteaga
"I sat in that dealer finance office chair myself. My dealer's buy rate was 2.93% — they charged me 5.49%, and I didn't find out until after I signed. I know the desk. It still happened to me. Here's how to check if it happened to you."
Omar Arteaga · Licensed Insurance Adjuster · Founder, CheckMyCarDeal

What you can't undo — and what you can.

There is no federal 3-day cooling-off right on a car purchase. But add-on products can usually be canceled for a full refund in the first 30–60 days, prorated after. Charges added without your consent can be disputed. A dealer demanding you re-sign can be refused — get it in writing.

Cancel add-ons → Dispute added charges → Dealer wants you to re-sign →
Step 1 · Free Rate Check

Did the Dealer Mark Up Your Rate?

Sixty seconds. No contact info needed. See what the rate on your contract is really costing you.

Estimate based on average rates by credit tier over a 60-month loan. Not a lender quote.

CheckMyCarDeal provides educational information and calculators only. We are not a lender, broker, insurance agent, or financial advisor. We do not take loan applications, make credit decisions, underwrite, or sell insurance or warranties. Estimates are illustrative, based on inputs you provide, and may differ from actual lender, insurer, or administrator offers. Confirm all terms, rates, fees, coverage, and exclusions with the provider before signing. This is not financial, legal, or tax advice.

$1,800
Example cost of a 2% rate markup
100–300%
Markup range on extended warranties
40–60%
Can come from the dealer finance office
60 days
In many states: cancel your warranty for a full refund
Step 2 · What you can cancel

What You Paid vs. What It's Worth

Pull out your contract and find each product below. Dealer price, real value, and the way out if it's already on your paperwork.

Gap Coverage
Watch Out
Dealer: $400–$900  |  Insurer: $20–$40/yr
If your loan exceeds 100% of the vehicle's value, gap coverage matters — and your auto insurer typically offers it for $20–$40 a year. Already bought it? Here's how to cancel it.
Extended Warranty
Overpriced
Dealer: $2,200–$4,000  |  Market: $900–$1,800
Independent providers like Endurance or Cuvrd advertise comparable plans at 40–60% less. In many states you can cancel within a specified window for a full refund. Already bought it? Here's how to cancel it.
Tire & Wheel Protection
Often Unnecessary
Dealer: $800–$1,200  |  Fair value: $150–$350
Check your auto insurance policy — many plans already cover road hazard damage. Already bought it? Here's how to cancel it.
Paint & Fabric Protection
Pure Profit
Dealer: $400–$1,500  |  Actual cost: $50–$100
This is wax and scotchguard applied by a detailer — often already done before you see the car. Already bought it? Here's how to cancel it.
Window Number Etching
2,000% Markup
Dealer: $200–$500  |  Actual cost: ~$20
A number etched on the windows. A $20 kit available anywhere. Already done at the factory on most vehicles. Already bought it? Here's how to cancel it.
Dealer stalling on your cancellation? Here's the escalation ladder →
Guided Journey

Did the Payment Stretch You Too Thin?

Answer five questions about your income, credit, and the car you bought. See the payment your budget can carry, the rate range for your credit, your loan compared to the car's value, and whether gap coverage made sense. Under 2 minutes.

Let's get started 0 / 5
Question 1 of 5
What is your gross monthly income?
💡 Your income before taxes — all sources. Lenders use this to compare your monthly debts to your income, which sets your maximum car payment.
Include employment, self-employment, and any regular income.
Question 2 of 5
What is your credit score range?
💡 Your score sets your rate tier. Higher score means lower rate and thousands less in interest. Dealers pull a credit score built for auto lending, which can differ 20–50 points from Credit Karma.
Use your best estimate. Experian shows a free credit score you can use as a guide.
Question 3 of 5
What are your current monthly debt payments?
💡 Lenders add your car payment to all current debts and divide by income — this is your monthly debts compared to income. Most lenders cap approval at 43–45%. If yours is above that, the dealer may have stretched your term to make the payment fit.
Include rent, mortgage, other car payments, student loans, and credit cards — not the new car payment.
Question 4 of 5
How much did you put down?
💡 Your down payment reduced what you financed and your loan compared to the car's value. If your loan exceeds 100% of the vehicle's value, you owe more than it is worth — this is when gap coverage matters.
Include cash, trade-in equity, or both.
Question 5 of 5
What was the vehicle's price?
💡 The selling price — not the monthly payment. If the loan was stretched to 72 or 84 months to hit a payment, the extra interest shows up in your finance charge below.
Use the price before taxes, fees, and dealer finance office products were added.
Your Results

Here's How Your Deal Stacks Up

Based on your answers. Compare each number with your contract.

Estimated at-risk dollars in your deal
$3,200
Illustrative estimate for a buyer in your profile — based on your answers, not your contract
Your numbers — based on your answers
Est. Max Safe Monthly Payment—
Expected Rate Range—
Loan Compared to Car's Value—
Gap Coverage Needed?—
Monthly Debts Compared to Income—
Estimated Finance Charge Range—

Your next step

Check your exact contract rate with the Free Rate Check → See which add-ons you can cancel → See if refinancing could lower your payment →

CheckMyCarDeal provides educational information and calculators only. We are not a lender, broker, insurance agent, or financial advisor. We do not take loan applications, make credit decisions, underwrite, or sell insurance or warranties. Estimates are illustrative, based on inputs you provide, and may differ from actual lender, insurer, or administrator offers. Confirm all terms, rates, fees, coverage, and exclusions with the provider before signing. This is not financial, legal, or tax advice.

Step 3 · Get a better rate

The alternative the dealer didn't show you

If your rate came in high, you don't have to keep it for 60 months. Enter your balance, your current interest rate, and your credit range to see what a lower rate would change — per month and over the loan.

Open the refinance calculator

Bad credit? When refinancing a high-interest-rate loan pays →

Common questions

Questions buyers ask the night after

Is there a 3-day cooling-off period after buying a car?

No. There is no federal 3-day cooling-off right on a car purchase. But add-on products such as gap coverage and extended warranties can usually be canceled for a full refund in the first 30–60 days and a prorated refund after that. Rules vary by contract and state.

Can I cancel an extended warranty after signing?

In many states you can cancel an extended service contract within a specified window for a full or prorated refund. Check your contract for its cancellation terms — refund windows and rules vary by contract and state. Step-by-step guide and letter →

What is gap coverage at a car dealership?

Gap coverage covers the difference between what you owe on your car loan and the car's actual value if it is totaled or stolen. Dealers charge $400–$900. Your auto insurer offers the same coverage for $20–$40 per year. Only needed if your loan exceeds 100% of the car's value. How to cancel dealer gap coverage →

What is dealer reserve or rate markup?

Dealer reserve is the profit a dealer earns by marking up your interest rate. The bank offers the dealer a buy rate — the dealer sells you a higher rate and keeps the difference. On a $30,000 loan over 60 months, a 2% markup costs you approximately $1,800. How to tell if it happened to you →

What is the dealer finance office?

The dealer finance office (sometimes called the finance and insurance office) is the back office where dealers finalize your loan rate and sell add-on products like extended warranties, gap coverage, tire protection, and paint protection. Dealers earn a large share of their profit per transaction in this room.

Should I negotiate the monthly payment or the total price?

Always negotiate the total vehicle price, never the monthly payment. Dealers can lower your payment by extending your loan term to 72 or 84 months — hiding thousands in extra interest. Agree on the out-the-door price first, then calculate the payment yourself.

If you haven't signed yet

Still Shopping? Use the 24-Hour Rule

Dealers are trained to use urgency against you. "This price is only good today." "Another buyer is looking at this car." These are tactics, not facts. The buyer who walks away holds all the power.

01
Never Buy on the First Visit
Buyers who walk away and come back often get a better price. Dealers would rather beat their own offer than lose the sale. The dealer needs your deal more than you need that car today.
02
Negotiate Total Price — Not the Payment
Payment negotiation is the dealer's favorite game. A lower payment can hide a longer term that costs you thousands more. Always negotiate the out-the-door price first.
03
Get a Written Offer Before You Leave
Take the written offer. Sleep on it. Come back with a lower counter. This is not rude — it is negotiation. Dealers expect it.
04
The Dealer Finance Office Is a Separate Negotiation
Everything after you say yes to the car — rate, warranty, gap coverage, fees — is a separate conversation. Never combine them. Each item can be declined, countered, or purchased elsewhere.
Your script: "Thank you — I need to review this with my partner tonight. Can you put that offer in writing? I'll have a decision by tomorrow."

What happens next: The dealer either matches your terms to keep you from leaving, or you return with a written counter. Either way, you win.